https://ars.repair/microwave-repair/what-caused-a-microwaves-ceramic-fuse-to-blow/
- Power Surge
- A non-functioning cooling fan that caused overheating
- Short in the controller
- Short in the power cord
- Short in the magnetron
- Short in the high voltage diode
- Faulty door interlock switches
- Misaligned door
https://www.hunker.com/13407903/what-causes-a-microwave-ovens-fuses-to-blow
https://fredsappliance.com/service/microwave-keep-blowing-fuses/
https://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_micfaq4.html#MICFAQ_019
7.3) Testing and replacing of interlock switches
With the oven unplugged, put an ohmmeter across the AC input just before the interlocks (but beyond the power relay or triac if it precedes these). Open and close the door slowly several times - there should be no significant change in resistance and it should be more than a few ohms. If it approaches zero while opening or closing the door, the interlock switches and door alignment should be checked. (You may need to disconnect one side of the transformer primary since its resistance is a fraction of an ohm. Refer to the schematic pasted inside the cover.) Replace with switches having a precisely identical fit and equal or better electrical specifications (terminal configuration, current rating). When removing the old switch make a note as to where each wire goes. Check the embossed marking on the old switch - don't depend on location as your replacement might just have a different arrangement. Make sure the new switch aligns correctly with the actuating mechanism and then check for correct electrical operation with an ohmmeter before applying power.
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